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Cumberland Island

A Little Place Near Charleston

11/28/2017

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PictureOur Base of Operations
By Sam Burnham
@C_SamBurnham

​
We spent the week leading up to Thanksgiving in the Charleston area. It was a typical Iron Skillet Travels style getaway. Our base of operations this time was too notable to not get it's own special post. Oh it wasn't a luxurious spa, a stately plantation mansion, or a re-purposed cotton mill. No this one is quite special in its own way. 

The managing editor found this little gem on Airbnb. It is located in the Shem Creek area of Mt. Pleasant. It is a recently renovated duplex and we we're staying in one side. The other side appears to still be in the renovation process but there was not a single minute that any work there disturbed our quiet or relaxation. The neighborhood is in a bit of a transition with most of the homes either recently renovated or in the process. The work seems to be following a traditional theme. It is tasteful and lovely. The "main drag" through that part of town features local business and restaurants. It is probably much busier during the summer season but it was a  The location is very convenient to downtown Charleston, Sullivan's Island, and Isle of Palms.   

PictureGreat Living Area For Reading or Watching a Game
The home itself holds a simple beauty. The decor is not overblown or obnoxious as you might find in many vacation homes. While the home is not huge, it was plenty big enough for our tight-knit group of five. 

In the living area there is cozy furniture and ample lamplight for an evening read. The window shades allow for a view of outside or privacy. There is a large television which we used to catch most of the Georgia game.  But most of the time there was spent reading, planning, or relaxing. 

The kitchen boasts a large fridge and full sized stove and oven. Even with three teenage boys running around it was not crowded or small. We got a lot of use of it as we took our evening meals there. There is not much seating, only two seats at a small bar. But a picnic table with umbrella on the back patio made for pleasant dining in the nice weather we experienced.

There is a sizable pantry with a sliding door which slides out over the hall opening leading to the bath and bedrooms. This is an insignificant inconvenience in exchange for such a smart space saving design.   
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The bath is small, as is the entire unit. But the use of a shower is a good optimization of space. You see shelving and a sink with vanity. Plush towels and tasteful decor are definitely a nice touch. Again, small and simple but adequate and realistic. 
The bottom sash of the window is frosted to offer privacy. But the window can also be opened to allow the fresh fall air to come if on a November evening.

The bedrooms are comfortable and, as with the rest of the house, make a wise use of space. They are not overwhelmingly lavish. They go with they stylishly simple theme that we found throughout the home. While not large, we found plenty of room to get a good night's sleep each evening. As with the living area, there are lamplight and ceiling fans. The bedding is all soft and there are full sized pillows, as opposed to those silly things you find in some hotels these days. 
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The outdoor areas offer a bit of home away from home. There is a small but adequate backyard where the boys got to enjoy some fresh air and at least one time throwing a ball around. I already mentioned the picnic table on the patio which we dined at a few times. There is a charcoal grill as well. On Saturday evening you could hear others along the street enjoying grilling and games - nothing bothersome or out of the way, just a friendly and festive neighborhood atmosphere. That seemed to enhance the backyard that evening.

The front yard is dominated by an oak tree surrounded by a mulched area. It is a welcome sight after a long day of touring the area. The front porch is screened in and offers some lovely vintage seating. It's a great spot of an evening of porch sitting. 

Overall, it is a beautiful stop. We loved the simplicity, the comfort, even the closeness of it all was nice for a family holiday outing. This is an excellent choice for a small family or perhaps a couple. Comfortable and convenient. 
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After the Rain

5/1/2017

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By Sam Burnham
@C_SamBurnham

​Sometimes we get too caught up in the race. We get focused on poltics or cultural struggles or work or any numerous other distractions. Too often I get so caught up in fighting for Southern culture that I miss out on actually being Southern. That's what I'm seeing right now. I'm starting this post after a much needed porch sitting during a storm.

I needed it

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A Southern Palace

10/10/2016

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By Sam Burnham
​@C_SamBurnham
PictureThe Governor's Palace
The recent trip to Virginia gave me many ideas for stories to share here. I think there are many ideas that go with our small town theory we've been discussing and we'll get to that soon. But Before we do, I'd like to focus on one of the more beautiful sites I encountered along the way. 

In the South, the great houses are a thing of legend. In all likelihood, this particular home was the first among them. Completed in 1722. the Governor's Palace in Williamsburg served as the the seat of power and the home of the king's designated colonial governor of Virginia. The governor that is discussed the most in the Revolutionary City was the final royal governor, John Murray, fourth Earl of Dunmore typically called Lord Dunmore. 

The original structure was destroyed by fire in 1781, just months after the capital was moved to Richmond. John D. Rockefeller made the commitment to restore the city as a historic landmark and the Governor's Palace was reconstructed using plans discovered at Monticello. Thomas Jefferson had drawn up detailed plans on the structure while planning some renovations during his tenure as governor. While the plans were not used by Jefferson himself, they proved invaluable to the reconstruction effort. 

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The foyer would have been a public space. Anyone have official business involving the colonial government, anything from businesses licenses, issue with deeds, anything that required paperwork or permission, would be handled in the lobby or adjacent parlor by an agent of the governor. This being the case, the foyer was decorated to project power.

The black walnut walls are covered with hundreds of muskets, pistols,  swords, pikes, and the like. The weapons in Lord Dunmore's time would have been used in the French & Indian War and would have been a source of pride to the colonists. These were the weapons that had kept them safe and free. The marble floor is the only one of it's kind in Virginia, if not the American colonies in general. 

The center of the governor's social interactions would be the ballroom. The room displays the portraits of George III, the reigning monarch at the time portrayed, and Charles II who reestablished the monarchy after the rule of Cromwell. Charles II is reported to have affectionately called Virginia his "loyal old dominion" and, the legend continues, the name stuck. 

Should you think the harpsichord provided for music would make for a boring night, the room is equipped with an adjacent powder room,,,for the gentlemen. The powder room was provided for the men to freshen up their powdered wigs. A docent informed me the wigs had to be freshened more or less frequently based on the dancing ability of the gentleman. Good dancers needed more attention more often. And the governor kept three master wig makers on duty to tend to the needs of his guests.  

​A man such as Lord Dunmore would have had many guests and the rich and powerful in Virginia and even beyond would have been entertained in this ballroom. 
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The Portrait of Charles II
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The Portrait of George III
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The Crest of the King Overlooks the Gardens
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The Boxwood Maze Makes for a Fun Challenge
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As most houses of this prominence, the palace has a compliment of ornamental gardens. Shrubbery, trees, and flowers all combine to make a peaceful respite from the challenges of ruling a colony. Pathways connect the various garden areas. There is a boxwood maze, a bowling green, terraces. All are overlooked by the crest of the king, with his seemingly ubiquitous "Dieu et Mon Droit" the motto translated into English as "God and My Right" referring to the claimed Divine Right of the king to rule. It was this kingly right that enabled the governor himself to preside over Virginia as the king's designee. 

There is no doubt that over the years these gardens would have been visited by Thomas Jefferson, Peyton Randolph, George Wythe, Patrick Henry, and, of course, the seven royal governors of Virginia. 

There is a great view of the maze from the mount, a manmade hill that conceals the old ice vault. The vault stored ice cut from frozen ponds and kept ice available for special treats throughout the summer.
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The color in the gardens is beautiful even during the onset of fall. There's a resident cat, "Sir Thomas Grey" who roams the gardens much like his predecessors would have. Among the other life are squirrels and more than a few birds. 

While such rooms and gardens are not practical in most of our homes today, this was not an ordinary home. This is a gem from yet another bygone era. An fitting reproduction of an elegant home of yesteryear and a recommended stop for anyone finding themselves in the area. 

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    Sam B.

    Historian, self-proclaimed gentleman, agrarian-at-heart, & curator extraordinaire
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