The next step on our road trip carried us to the mouth of the Savannah River. Situated between the north and south channels of the river is Cockspur Island. The island is connected to US 80 by a small bridge crossing the south channel. It's not a large island by any means and people often don't even make a distinction between Cockspur and the more developed and well known Tybee Island. But Cockspur is significant. It is currently the location of a United States Coast Guard station and Ft. Pulaski National Monument. As with many of our national monuments, the name doesn't quite cover it all. But we'll start with the fort to give it its due. Ft. Pulaski is one of roughly two dozen masonry forts that the government commissioned in the 1830's to defend the Atlantic and Gulf Coast areas. Savannah was an important port and Pulaski was built to defend the shipping lanes in the Savannah River from attack. A young Army engineer was sent to Pulaski for his first assignment after graduation from West Point. This young man, a Virginian by the name of Robert E. Lee, helped survey, design, and construct this massive fort. Ft. Pulaski is a bit of an engineering marvel. Cypress pilings were driven into the coastal wetlands. The foundation was built over these pilings and then over 25,000,000 bricks were used to build walls that average between five and 11 feet thick, of solid brick. Despite the weight of the structure, there has never been a crack in the fort from foundation settling. In over 170 years the fort has settled less on its foundation than the modern visitor center has in around 40 years. The fort was heavily damaged by artillery fire from Union forces set up on Tybee Island. During this first major encounter between rifled cannon and a masonry fort, new technology proved to be superior. This was led to the end of the masonry fort age as military leaders found that the structures could not withstand the the force of the rifled guns. But the site is not just about the fort. Cockspur Island is an interesting natural location. The meeting of a major river, the coastal wetlands, and the Atlantic Ocean provides excellent opportunities to encounter wildlife, take in beautiful scenery, and enjoy an outing of fishing or hiking. The fort's moat was designed to replenish the water in it with each incoming tide. The constant refresh of brackish water has created a miniature ecosystem that encircles the fort. Fish, turtles, crab, even alligator use the moat for a home. Viewing these animals involves merely looking in the moat.
The ruins of the Old North Pier are just a short distance further down the trail. This pier was where Wesley's ship landed. It was a bustling trade and transportation center in the 18th century. Ships from England and elsewhere brought goods and passengers to the new colony of Georgia and this was the first pier available to those ships. The Yamacraw Bluff site of the then new city of Savannah lay several more miles upstream. The trail also takes visitors past Battery Hambright, which was built during the Spanish American War to defend the north channel against mine laying ships. While the battery never saw action, it does add to the military history of the site and makes for an interesting pit stop along the trail for an elevated view and maybe a photo. The shipping in the area created the need for navigational assistance. In 1848 a 46 foot tall lighthouse was lit for the first time at the far end of the island. The brick structure marked the opening of the south channel. I've always had an affinity for lighthouses. In this area, Tybee Island Light gets the attention and the press. But there is just something about a little lighthouse perched on a sandbar that completely disappears at high tide, leaving the tower jutting up out of the waves. It would be easy to overlook Cockspur Island light, especially with its lofty cousin visible in the distance. In the early 29th century, all shipping was moved to the north channel and Cockspur Light was abandoned. Over the years the elements took their toll and it looked like this brave little lighthouse was doomed. But preservation efforts have been intensified recently and it looks like this lighthouse will be with us for some time. Here's hoping. Tybee Island is just a short drive from this site. There are plenty of local eateries, shopping, museums, and, of course, the beach. This area is just a short drive from Savannah and makes for a great stop on a coastal road trip.
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This is the third and final post in a three-part series on travel destinations in Georgia. This wasn't the post I had originally intended to write. This was planned to be a post on some out of the way places that we have enjoyed in Georgia. But fate has intervened. This past weekend found the curator and managing editor on a full-blown traditional Sunday drive. During the outing we found all sorts of interesting things to see and do. At certain points, we even felt far from home but we were never more than 15 miles from our front door. Afterward, I was reminded of a pivotal moment that helped lead to the creation of this very website. That fateful moment of inspiration came from a common drive. Might have even been a commute of sorts, I don't recall. What I do remember was coming over the crest of a hill I traveled quite often, a sight I had seen hundreds of times. It looked sort of like this: And that time it struck me differently than it ever had before. I saw it as a beautiful view. And in that moment I realized that I was finally noticing something that had been under my nose for years. I made up my mind to look for beauty every day. I vowed to look for the historic, the meaningful, the symbolic, and important elements in even the most mundane of days. I realized that as much as I like to travel and explore that I will have wasted a grand opportunity if I do not learn to cherish the grand world around me. That leads me to this challenge: I want you to write this part. Take in the sunrise. Notice the detail in a old structure. A painting. A beautiful piece of music. An old couple holding hands as they walk down the sidewalk. A historic marker you've never stopped to read. The Etsy shop of a Twitter follower. A locally owned restaurant, bookstore, or hardware store. And yes, by all means, an old Victorian cemetery. Notice it. Stop what you are doing for just a minute. Take a picture. Take notes. Write a poem or a song. Maybe a voice memo. Shoot a video. Whatever you feel inspired to do. If you want to keep it to yourself, that's fine. If you want to go to my contact page and share it with me, that's fine too. Who knows? It might wind up on one of these pages (with attribution of course). You don't even have to be from Georgia. So happy hunting. I hope you notice something new in the near future that you've never noticed before. This is the first post in a three-part series on travel destinations in Georgia. One of the most popular topics we receive comments and questions about here at ABG is travel destinations. Whether it's a day hike or one of our longer road trips, readers seem curious about the locations we choose. The driving force behind our family trips is education. We are all readers and love the occasional lecture on an interesting topic, but we are true believers in experiential learning. A location can often tell a story better than a book or a lecture. So, we go, and immerse ourselves in the narrative. Whether it's natural, historic, cultural or some combination of the three, these sites tell the story. Georgia has an excellent state park system. Here are five of the many locations in that system that tell the story of Georgia. 1. New Echota State Historic Site near Calhoun is the site of the capital of the Cherokee Nation from 1825 until the removal via "The Trail of Tears". The site gives a unique look into Cherokee life including small farms, the print shop of the Cherokee language newspaper, the buildings of the three-branch government, and a roadside tavern. The influence of Moravian missionaries can also be seen in Samuel Worcester's home. This park provides a good look at "Georgia before Georgia". Visitors see the lives, the cultures, and the very civilization of the people that inhabited North Georgia prior to the Indian removal. You can see the influence of faith, complex society, and agrarianism, all here before the Americans called this part of Georgia home. Our favorite New Echota event would be the candlelight tours at Christmastime. Living historians bring the Cherokee and Moravian traditions alive in sight and sound. Preservation and restoration issues forced the cancellation of the tours this past year, but we hope for their return this Christmas. Find more about New Echota's offerings on the web at: http://gastateparks.org/NewEchota 2. Let's go back in time about a century or so. Wormsloe State Historic Site is located just outside Savannah. In the 1730's James Oglethorpe secured the charter for the colony and led the first settlers from Great Britain to Georgia. And there is no doubt that Oglethorpe is the father of Georgia. But without the work of Noble Jones, it's possible that Georgia would not survive today. Noble Jones surveyed the streets of Savannah and Augusta. He was an early civic and business leader. He was also one of the few original Georgia colonists to remain after the death or departure of so many others. He made his home on what is now the Isle of Hope and he named it Wormsloe. And now, almost 300 years later, his descendants still call the estate home. While his tabby home is in ruins, a family home on the grounds makes Wormsloe the oldest consecutively held privately owned home in Georgia. Although the private home is understandably off limits, there is an excellent visitor center, several locations for living history interpretation, incredible views of coastal Georgia marshlands from a Native American shell midden that likely dates back several centuries, and, of course, the tabby ruins of Noble Jones' fortified colonial home. The site has ties to colonial, revolutionary, and Civil War history. They have excellent living historians and the Colonial Faire & Muster is scheduled for February 6-8. Find Wormsloe on the web: http://gastateparks.org/Wormsloe 3. During the colonial era, The British Government saw the need to defend the fledgling colony from the Spanish in Florida, so several military installations were built. Fort King George was built in 1721 and is the oldest British fort remaining on the Georgia coast. The site is just outside present day Darien. For the purposes of public tours, the old plans for the fort were used to reconstruct an exact replica of the the blockhouse fort. The feel is very different from many of the historic sites in Georgia. This is truly a colonial experience. Our favorite Ft. King George event is July's Cannons over the Marsh. We ate watermelon and sipped lemonade with His Royal Majesty's Invalid Brigade and mingled with colonists. We even had detailed instruction by the fort's physician who told us about the surprisingly advanced medical care available to British soldiers. Oh, and one of King George's officers gave us a public reading of a portion of the Declaration of Independence while the Union Jack fluttered over our heads. Find the fort here: http://gastateparks.org/FortKingGeorge 4. Franklin Roosevelt was not from Georgia. He might not be high on the list of people you associate with Georgia history, but he had a vacation home in Warm Springs, a site he used for therapy for his disability. While his politics won't always find accolades on this site, his experiences in Georgia did give him a connection with the farmers of the area. He seems to have developed a true compassion for the folks that broke the soil for a living. His connection with the common people of Warm Springs, his enduring legacy with the Warm Springs Foundation and the people who came to seek the same therapy that brought him to Georgia, not to mention his legendary picnics atop Dowdell's Knob, give him a permanent place in Georgia lore. Today you can visit The Little White House, where FDR died in 1945. The home is left just as it was on the President's last visit. They haven't even changed the toilet paper rolls in the bathrooms. Just down the street, you can also tour the pools where so many people alleviated their symptoms from polio and similar illnesses. And just a short drive from there will have you in awe of the magnificent view from Dowdell's Knob, at Roosevelt State Park, where FDR's preserved grill and a bronze likeness of the President stand in his memory. The park boasts swimming, hiking, and many other outdoor activities. You can find the Little White House online here: http://gastateparks.org/LittleWhiteHouse and FDR State Park here: http://gastateparks.org/FDRoosevelt 5. We'll finish this list in the far northeast corner of Georgia with a two-for-one listing. Due to proximity and their equal status in my mind, these two sites should be visited on the same trip. North of Clayton is the highest of Georgia's state parks. Standing at 3,650 feet, Black Rock Mountain State Park offers camping, cottages, fishing, 80 miles of hiking trails and some of the most breathtaking views in Georgia. The views from the overlooks alone would be worth the trip and the altitude usually means cooler temperatures than you would find at other state parks. As hiking is one of our favorite family activities, this park has a secure place among our favorite sites. We especially recommend the Tennessee Rock Trail. Just a short drive from Georgia's highest park you'll find the deepest. Tallulah Gorge State Park protects the 2-mile long, 1000 feet deep canyon, one of the best east of the Mississippi. The park offers all the amenities of a state park. The Jane Hurt Yarn Interpretive Center gives visitors the feeling of descending into the canyon while learning about the wild life they will encounter during their true descent. 100 permit holders per day will be allowed to walk on the actual canyon floor, while all hikers can descend to the suspension bridge which stretches across the creek some 80 feet from the water below. You'll also have time to learn about the once booming resort town of Tallulah Falls, which is still there and still nice to visit. You can find Black Rock Mountain online at: http://gastateparks.org/BlackRockMountain And Tallulah Gorge at: http://gastateparks.org/TallulahGorge |
Sam B.Historian, self-proclaimed gentleman, agrarian-at-heart, & curator extraordinaire Social MediaCategories
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